Dallas Is Delicious

The Design District near downtown Dallas is a gem full of studios, art galleries and unexpected gourmet delights. Two of our favorite spots here are the Meddlesome Moth and Oak. This post focuses on the latter destination. It was D’s first try and my second for dinner. The temperature outside was mild, so I made the decision to move our reservation outdoors on the patio while I waited for D to arrive. Apparently, it was their first night to open it up to the public. There was a nice little fireplace sidebar for ambiance, and it was well lit enough to retain the romantic mood. Speaking of which, Oak is the perfect location for an intimate group of friends, out-of-town clients, or that date you want to impress.

Once D arrived, we wasted no time ordering the most desirable. We opened with the hamachi crudo, with pickled vegetable, sea salt, sweet soy and jalapeno oil. I have to say, it was one of the most beautiful and eye-pleasing appetizers I’ve ever seen. Fresh, light and various in texture, I thoroughly enjoyed this dish. D thought the fish itself could have had more of a delicate flavoring. He especially loved the little cubes of radish. Unfortunately, I started to get chilled from the wind out on the patio. Soon after we had ordered the crudo, it started to sprinkle rain so we moved the tasting party inside - hence the differentiation in the following pictures. 

You should know by now that D and I are brussels sprouts lovers. So it shouldn’t come as a surprise that we got a side of some dusted with panko bread crunch and seasoned in garlic. The soft crunch of the sprouts with the mini panko crunch were in perfect tune with each other. There were some sprout leaves that must have been either pan fried or lightly charred on the edges. They were my favorite part. It fondly reminded me of seaweed paper - airy crisp fluffs with a distinct flavor. 

Ok, for my main entree I had the seven ounce grilled filet of beef with brown butter potato, trumpet mushroom, and bordelaise. The trail of green sliver was garnished pesto. I always get my beef medium rare, and the chefs at Oak nailed it to a T! Even D agreed it was well prepared. The flavor was embedded deep in the meat, so eat bite reminded you of what a great entree choice you made. The veggies were a very nice complement, especially the slices of brown butter potato. 

D ordered the strozzapretti (apparently a seasonal menu item since I couldn’t find it on Oak’s site) which was a nice pasta main course with green legumes, pine nuts and parmesan shavings. It was light, minimally creamy and very colorful. I had a taste and thought it was great, but I would have personally preferred it as a side dish instead. He seemed to have thoroughly enjoyed it though. 

Last but not least was the infamous carrot cake bread pudding with golden raisin, candied walnut and cream cheese ice cream… aka “Heaven”. The cake bread pudding was moist and wonderfully rich with flavor and scents. See those orange flakes on top of the whipped dollop? That’s made from candied carrot. Those are granola bits next to it. All of the above sat atop smears of caramel and disappeared in about 5 minutes. What a perfect ending to a perfect meal!

Side things to note: the service is exceptional. From the hostess to the waitstaff, everyone greets you with a genuine smile. The service was prompt and our waiter Ben was very knowledgeable about the menu items and cocktails. The interior decor is fantastic (no surprise here; it’s in the design district afterall) and the atmosphere is intimate and cozy. Oak is definitely one of my newest ” top recommended must-try places to eat”.

Bill = $88
A =  5 of 5
P =  5 of 5
Q =  5 of 5
T =  5 of 5
V =  5 of 5

For a couple of years I had been kicking myself for having never dined at Tillman’s. It wasn’t as if I hadn’t made multiple attempts, each one thwarted in some way or another…each time forcing me to a different nearby eatery.

So after a minor location snafu with P, we we were seated at a table for a long awaited dinner at Tillman’s Roadhouse. Eschewing the more traditional pre-meal bread & butter option, diners are served small dishes of popcorn coated in truffle oil. Outside of being overused, truffle oil can be really powerful stuff if not used sparingly. The oil application on the popcorn was a bit heavy handed, but we were glad to have it considering how slow our server was to take our order…and for the rest of the evening. We had to continually ask for water, to have our order taken, our food, etc.

We first ordered the Country Cornbread, which is served in a cast iron skillet and is made with roasted corn, charred peppers, and white cheddar. Their cornbread manages to ride a fine line between a southern un-sweetened cornbread and a yankee version that is much sweeter. The flavor of the bread was good, but must have been cooked with a pound of butter. You could basically squeeze the grease out of it like a saturated sponge.

For an entree, P went with the Smoked Pork Ribs served with bacon-cheddar mac & cheese. The ribs were the best item of the evening. They were tender and juicy and coated in a flavorful glaze. I’m not normally a fan of mac & cheese and this one didn’t win me over. The pasta was mushy and the sauce was bland.

My entree was the Bone-in Strip Steak which came with bacon-braised swiss chard. I had enough of the truffle oil with the popcorn, so I opted for grilled asparagus instead of the standard truffle oil tater tots. The preparation of the steak was without fault. It was cooked to a perfect medium rare temperature and had a nice exterior crust, but the meat wasn’t particularly flavorful or tender leaving me overall unsatisfied. The chard added a welcome bitter note, but the accompanying bacon pieces were flaccid and lifeless. The asparagus was quite good, but it takes a lot to screw up asparagus.

After the borderline dreadful service we had received all night and the less than stellar food, we opted out of dessert. Perhaps if i return I’ll get the ‘famous’ table side s’mores.

All in all the food at Tillman’s was ‘fine’, but we left feeling that the service and food quality didn’t justify the price paid. While I’m glad to have finally eaten there, I’m no longer beating myself up for having taken so long to do so.

Bill = $87
A = 3 out of 5
P = 3 out of 5
Q = 3 out of 5
T = 3 out of 5
V = 2 out of 5

Once upon a time not too long ago, I tried the popular brunch at SMOKE. I ambitiously ordered the pulled whole hog BBQ eggs benedict with goat cheese potato cakes and a side of thick cut pork belly bacon which both left no impression on me other than that the benedict was too bland and the bacon too dry.

Last week, I thought to give SMOKE’s brunch another chance. This time, I carefully chose (based upon peer reviews) the blueberry & house-made ricotta cheese pancakes with vanilla poached apricots and cream while D got the smoked brisket cornbread hash with poached egg, green chili rajas and pearl onions.

The brisket cornbread hash was a gracious serving with a nice melody of flavor and texture. Not too much meat – not too many garnishings. The beef was cooked throughout, but tender enough to make you think otherwise. Cornbread is comforting, and it was subtle enough to add a little bit of sweetness to the dish. I thoroughly enjoyed the few forkfuls I stole.

The ricotta pancakes were a close second. The fluffy stacks were rich and tasty, but I was envious of D’s hash. It’s a real beauty though – the presentation was pleasing to the eye, and the aromas were heavenly. Personally, I think the very sweet, desert-like dish is more of an after-thought, not a main course. Still, you’ll definitely want to try this signature SMOKE brunch menu item.

Side things to note: D and I arrived at the ass-crack of dawn on a Saturday morning to beat the rush. There were only about 6 or 7 full tables in the place at 9:30am (probably less than 20 people total). Our waiter still blamed his mistakes on how “so busy and short-staffed” the place was. I did not receive my side of over-easy egg until after I was already finished with my meal (and it was delivered scrambled), and D got his eggs halfway through his. I understand restaurants get busy and things get backed up or forgotten, but it’s another thing to not let me cancel my super late side order after I’m done eating and say, “Hold tight, it’s on the way”. What am I going to do? Take the over-easy egg home in my pocket? I know he was only trying to help, but common sense helps too. Avoid peak weekend times if you’re in a hurry. Go before 10am or after 1pm.

Overall, if we hadn’t decided to split the dishes, I don’t think I would have been fulfilled and satisfied. I liked my second brunch attempt at SMOKE, but I still prefer the dinner offerings. D has yet to partake in this awesomeness, so hopefully we’ll be back soon!

Bill = $37
A = 3 out of 5
P = 4 out of 5
Q = 4 out of 5
T = 3 out of 5
V = 3 out of 5

Oak Cliff has become chock full of great places to eat over the last few years. Nestled near the intersection of Zang and Beckley lie an interesting mix of eateries including the all vegan Spiral Diner, popular brunch location Jonathon’s Oak Cliff, and Campo Modern Country Bistro. P had recently dined at Campo and highly recommended that we check it out as our 2nd destination… so we ended up there around 9 on a Friday night. The dining area is a small open area, sparsely decorated with some wooden elements, industrial open bulb lighting, and a wall near the kitchen displaying a sculpture of cutlery and flatware protruding from the wall…which cast interesting shadows across the area. The space has a nice feel to it, but once full (as it was Friday night) becomes incredibly loud. Throughout most of the meal I was struggling to an extent to hear my co-diner.

Our plan of attack for food consumption included ordering a variety of items to share. We chose a mix of items that P had craved since her original visit and items highly recommended by the waiter. In hindsight our choices weren’t the best pairings, and this meal will from this point forward be known as The Night of the Mustard.

The mustard adventures began with a salad of Pickled Beets, Mustard creme fraiche, and Miner lettuce. The beets were a mix of red and gold. Either the varying types of beets take to pickling differently, or the red had been pickled/brined for a longer period of time as they were much more flavorful than their gold counterparts. The creme fraiche was a nice pairing, offering a spicy tart contrast to the sweet earthiness of the beets. The miner lettuce was not a substantial element and was little more than a garnish to the dish.

Along side the beets we were served a dish of Tamarind Glazed Crispy Pork belly and a Mustard Risotto. The Pork belly was succulent and flavorful, but could have benefitted from more of the glazing, especially to counteract the bordering-on-overpowering mustard flavor of the risotto. The risotto was perfectly cooked, and a bite of each element was really quite good, there just wasn’t enough of the pork to make that happen.

Our first entree was a Lamb Neck Sugo with Black trumpet mushrooms, snap peas, and Potato Gnocchi. It was my favorite savory component of the night (and the only not consisting of a mustard element). The gnocchi was light and fluffy, the black trumpet’s added a chewy earthiness, and then…the lamb sugo…a beautiful and flavorful dark broth with chunks of lovely lamb. I’d highly recommend that anyone that partakes in the meaty goodness try this dish.

The second entree selection was a massive bone-in Pork chop paired with a charred turnip puree, smoked turnips, and a relish of apple, bacon, and…wait for it…mustard.
The mustard component of this dish wasn’t on the menu, but should be as the mustard kind of punches you in the face. The pork was cooked sous vide to a perfect temperature, but was not finished on a grill or hot pan and was lacking the crust/sear that belongs on such a cut. Even with the near mustard overkill, the overall pairing of flavors when combined into a single bite is spot on. The sweet apple, salty bacon, smoky turnip, spicy mustard, and juicy pork made for a great combination.

We wrapped things up with a Lemon curd served with pound cake, buttermilk ice cream, and a smoked huckleberry puree. Chef Josh Black really can pair up flavors. The combo here is great, and the buttermilk ice cream was silky smooth. But the highlight of dessert…was the smoked huckleberry puree. The smoked flavor really comes through without being too powerful. It was along the lines of a sweet dessert barbeque sauce that worked wonderfully well with the other components.

Overall it wasn’t my favorite meal in recent history. Everything was very well prepared, but I think the noise and mustard levels kept me from getting everything I could from the experience. I’ll definitely be back and look forward to trying their new brunch offerings.

-D

Bill = $75 
A = 3 out of 5
P = 3 out of 5
Q = 4 out of 5
T = 3 out of 5
V = 3 out of 5

Mockingbird Station is a pretty neat little area. You’ve got your Urban Outfitters and Angelika Film Center all in one convenient hotspot. Right across the street is the grand and lavish Hotel Palomar. This is where Central 214 lives. Filled with orange luminescence and well-dressed people, the restaurant/bar welcomes you. The staff does a great job at it as well. Service with a smile goes a long way.
 
On to the good stuff. For starters, our waiter raved about the pan-fried shistito peppers in toasted garlic and Meyer lemon. D and I didn’t have the same impression. We had to ask for some salt. For salads, I got the Brussels sprout leaves with amaranth and pork belly while D got the shaved celery root with honey crisp apple and pine nuts. While it was light, sweet and fresh, we both still favored the Brussels over the celery root because of its savory flavor and heartiness. One thing to note: it will fill you up!
 
For our main courses, D chose the oxtail ragout with crispy gnocchi and basil pesto. The Texas bobwhite quail with mascarpone polenta and sauce vierg had my name all over it. D’s dish was tasty and rich; I especially enjoyed the oxtail. The gnocchi was just “meh” to me. My quail was tender, but my favorite part was the polenta. Very smooth.

Desserts were winners. D was jealous of my lemon honey cake with sweet mascarpone, but while I was guarding my precious, I was eyeing his ugly pug chocolate cake with Chantilly cream the whole time. Central 214 desserts alone deserve a repeat. Over and over again.

-P

While agreeing with much of what P states above, I’ll add a few of my own thoughts as well.
The shishito peppers were definitely over sold by the waiter. The peppers were well done, with just the right amount of charring and blistering, but lacked any real flavor. They desperately needed a bit of seasoning and maybe some acid to punch up the flavor. The most exciting thing about the dish was getting occasional chile with a bit of lingering heat.

For the record…I did not prefer the Brussel Sprout over the Celery Root salad. I found both dishes to be quite good, but would order the Celery root salad over the Sprouts next time. The combination of the slightly bitter Celery root, tart apples, and the sweet and piney pinolis was really great. My only niggle with the dish was that the salad was over dressed, leaving a lot of olive oil behind in the serving bowl. The Brussel Sprouts with amaranth and pork belly was also good but to be honest…sprouts need to be paired with something other than pig. Pork has become to brussel sprouts what goat cheese is to beets. Sure, they go great together, but there are other serving options. Sprouts go fantastic with nuts, glazes, caramelized shallots…the list goes on. While I’m on my sprout soap box…why do restaurants insist on only serving a spattering of outer leaves? I’d like to see a place plop down some full sprouts please. All of that said…the Brussel sprout dish at Central 214 is wonderfully prepared and quite tasty.

Next up…the oxtail ragout with crispy gnocchi and pesto was kind of amazing. The ragout was rich and complex. The oxtail was tender and contributed a ton of flavor to the broth that the gnocchi were submerged in. The minor issue I had with this dish was that the menu described the gnocchi as ‘crisp’, which they were not. I was hoping for the little dumplings of joy to be quickly crisped up in a pan of brown butter or something, but they arrived decidedly un-crisp. The gnocchi are also on the dense side, which is fine me. I’m an equal opportunity gnocchi lover. If you prefer your gnocchi to be soft and pillowy like P, you may want to look elsewhere.

Dessert…the Chocolate cake was good, but the real gem was the Lemon cake. The exterior had a nice crunch to it while the interior was still soft and moist. The flavor had a nice hint of lemon tang, and the marscapone was over whipped to a near butter consistency and wasn’t overly sweet. The local honey drizzled around the plate offered most of the dish’s sweetness quotient, which you had absolute control over. There is a good chance that I’ll wander over to Central 214 to order dessert after a screening at the Angelika or finishing off a torta at Urban Taco. I’m tempted to go right now.
-D

Bill = $90
A = 4 out of 5
P = 3 out of 5
Q = 3 out of 5
T = 4 out of 5
V = 3 out of 5

I have a good friend. His name is David. David is a lover of all foods. So am I. One day, we came up with the brilliant idea to keep a tally of our culinary conquests together. Henceforth, this blog was born. Go Team D&P!

Working with only a Google Doc spreadsheet and our insatiable stomachs, we venture out in the streets of Dallas to experience mutual eats we have yet to explore. Old, new, lame, cool - we’re going to do it all until we drop dead. Ok, well maybe until we get tired of this.

P.S. We came up with our own rating system that we think will help. So when you see these letters under each post, this is what they mean:

A = Atmosphere

P = Presentation

Q = Quality

T = Taste

V = Value